4 Days at NIHI Sumba: A Journey of Wellness and Wonder

Perched on a wild stretch of coastline on the Indonesian island of Sumba, NIHI Sumba is the sort of place that quietly redefines what a luxury resort can be. Repeatedly named among the world’s best by publications like Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveller, it isn’t simply about beautiful villas or dramatic ocean views – although it certainly has both. What makes NIHI different is the feeling that you’re somewhere genuinely remote and meaningful, where luxury sits naturally alongside adventure, culture and community.

Sumba itself feels worlds away from the busier parts of Indonesia. The landscape is rugged and untamed, with rolling hills, traditional villages and a powerful stretch of Indian Ocean coastline. The resort is built to blend into this setting rather than dominate it, with villas scattered across the hillside, pathways winding through tropical gardens and the constant sound of waves rolling in below.

Cordelia, one of LaTrove’s bespoke luxury travel specialists, was recently lucky enough to be invited there to experience all its glory herself. She spent four days here and stayed in the spectacular Marangga Family Estate at NIHI Sumba, a private estate with multiple bedrooms, expansive terraces and views directly out over the resort’s famous wave, Occy’s Left. It felt totally secluded, like your own private retreat on the edge of the ocean.

Below, Cordelia tells the tale of how her experience unfolded.

Day One – Arrival and How to Get to NIHI Sumba

Arriving on Sumba already feels like an adventure. After arriving on a short 60-minute flight from Denpasar Airport in Bali, NIHI’s team will greet you and handle everything from that moment onward. The level of care is immediately clear, from assistance at the airport to the comfortable safari-style vehicle waiting with fresh coconuts and warm, scented hand towels at the other end to take you to the resort.

The drive to NIHI Sumba takes about 90 minutes and is a fascinating introduction to the island. You pass small villages, sweeping landscapes and scenes of everyday Sumbanese life before eventually arriving at the gates of the resort.

That evening (a Wednesday) happened to coincide with one of the most memorable welcome experiences imaginable: the resort’s weekly dinner supporting the Sumba Foundation. The lobby had been completely transformed into an elegant dining space, beautifully decorated with flowers and lanterns. Long tables were set beneath soft lighting, and the atmosphere was both celebratory and deeply meaningful

During dinner, the team gave a presentation about the foundation and the extraordinary work it does across the island, from healthcare and clean water projects to education and malaria prevention. Hearing about the impact the resort has on the local community added a powerful layer of understanding to my upcoming stay.

Then came the food - quite honestly, the best buffet I’ve ever experienced. Alongside the incredible spread, which literally had everything you could think of, traditional Sumbanese singers and dancers performed throughout the evening, creating a vibrant and joyful atmosphere. It was the perfect introduction to both the resort and the island.

Day Two – The NIHI Spa Safari: A Wellness Vacation Highlight

My second day began with one of NIHI Resort’s most iconic experiences, also one of the best wellness vacation experiences in the world – the Nihioka Spa Safari.

The morning started in the most perfect way – riding a beautiful former racehorse named Hunter through the villages and past the luscious rice paddies towards the resort’s off-site spa. We also stopped off at one of Sumba’s traditional villages on the way, where we had a chance to meet the elders and see their traditional way of life. For anyone who loves horses as much as I do, it was already shaping up to be an unforgettable morning!

For those who don’t wish to ride, a 2-hour trek through the jungle is a beautiful way to feel like you’ve earned your upcoming treatments. Alternatively, the resort team will be happy to drop you off by car, only a 15-minute drive.

The ride brings you to the stunning Nihioka Spa, perched above a wild stretch of beach. Breakfast was served overlooking the ocean, with the sound of waves crashing below - a pretty incredible way to start the day.

From there, I slipped into a 2.5-hour spa journey that felt utterly spoiling! Treatments ranged from a rejuvenating facial and traditional Sumbanese healing massage to hot-and-cold stone therapy and reflexology. One of the most unique parts of the experience was the equine therapy ring, where sessions take place alongside Bindi or Hana, the resort’s resident healing horses. Guests can even book Reiki, yoga, or massage with these gentle Sumbanese horses – a practice NIHI has pioneered as part of its deep connection to the land and the 35 rescued wild horses in its care.

The resort also occasionally hosts world-renowned horse whisperers for special equine retreats, highlighting just how seriously they take this unique wellness approach.

The spa journey continued with a traditional Sumbanese lulur exfoliation, a sun-kissed body wrap, and a hydrating hair smoothie treatment. Every detail was extremely well thought through, from the mirrored massage beds that allow you to watch the waves while lying face down to the way my therapist carefully plaited my hair and popped a hibiscus flower in it after the hair treatment. It was relaxation and pampering taken to a whole new level, deeply soothing yet grounded in the traditions of Sumba.

Afterwards, we were collected in a safari vehicle and driven back to the resort for lunch at Nio Beach Club, where tables sit just steps from the water.

The afternoon was spent enjoying my villa – something that quickly becomes one of the great pleasures of staying at NIHI. The Marangga Estate, one of 28 Villas & Estates, was so beautiful that it’s easy to spend hours simply relaxing there.

At sunset, we headed down to the Boathouse for the resort’s wonderfully named “Happiest Hour”, sipping a cold Bintang Beer and enjoying snacks while watching the sun sink into the ocean.

That evening, NIHI’s team organised something incredibly special: a private in-villa dinner for our group. The staff transformed the grounds of our villa with flowers, soft lighting and an outdoor firepit. A grill and cocktail bar were set up on the terrace, and we were served an incredible three-course feast with endless options to suit everyone. Music played in the background as we dined under the stars – one of those surreal kind of evenings that you know will stay with you for a long time.

Day Three – Horses, Culture and Ocean Views

My final full day began with breakfast at Ombak Restaurant. One of the highlights here for me, being someone who loves a sweet treat, was the pastry service – a large tray of freshly baked pastries brought around the restaurant so you can choose your favourites. Absolutely delicious! I recommend the pistachio one. The menu itself covers everything from cooked breakfasts to traditional Indonesian dishes, smoothie bowls, juices and wellness shots.

After breakfast, I joined a yoga class at the beautiful beachfront yoga shala. It was a perfect start to the day. Then came what was probably the most special experience of the entire trip.

NIHI is famous for its “swimming with horses” experience, and as a lifelong horse lover, I couldn’t wait. Riding Elton along the beach and then into the ocean was something I’ll never forget - an extraordinary feeling and easily one of the most unique activities NIHI has to offer.

Later that morning, we joined the Sumba Foundation Tour, which offered a deeply moving insight into the heart of the island. We visited a local clinic funded by the foundation, where we met the dedicated doctors and nurses providing essential care to the community. Thanks to this clinic, residents no longer need to travel two hours for basic medical attention – a transformative change for many families.

We then visited one of the schools supported by the foundation, helping to deliver meals generously donated by NIHI to the children. Witnessing these projects firsthand was incredibly touching, offering a profound understanding of the island, its people, and the meaningful impact of the foundation’s work. Seeing the clinic firsthand reminds you that NIHI isn't just a hotel; it’s a luxury eco-resort. 

After returning to the resort, we had another relaxed lunch at Nio Beach Club, listening to the waves crashing just metres away. The afternoon was spent enjoying the villa again – including a long outdoor bath on my terrace overlooking Occy’s Left, the resort’s legendary surf break.

Dinner that evening was back at Ombak Restaurant, and it was also my birthday. The NIHI team surprised me with a cake and a chorus of happy birthday, which was such a thoughtful touch! The menu here is extensive and beautifully executed; the sort of place you could easily dine every night for a week without ever running out of dishes to try.

Day Four – A Final Morning

The departure morning arrived far too quickly. After one final breakfast at Ombak, it was time to say goodbye. NIHI’s team arranged the 90-minute transfer back to the airport in one of their safari vehicles, and, just like on arrival, every detail was taken care of. From the moment we left to the moment we boarded the plane, the entire journey was seamlessly handled.

It’s the sort of place that’s extremely difficult to leave – not just because of the setting but because of the people who make the experience so special. The genuine warmth of the staff, the huge beaming smiles, and their ability to predict what you need before you’re even aware that you need it!

What really stood out throughout the stay were the thoughtful details. Each evening during turndown service, small wellness elixir shots were left in our room to help digestion overnight. Waiting in the villa on arrival were gifts, including NIHI caps, tote bags, stainless steel water bottles and chocolate from the resort’s own chocolate factory. Handwritten notes were also left for us upon arrival and departure. They’re small touches, but they perfectly capture the spirit of the resort – generous, thoughtful and quietly luxurious.

Why NIHI Sumba Is Worth the Journey

NIHI Sumba isn’t simply a beach resort. It’s a place where adventure, wellness, culture and meaningful travel come together in a way that feels completely natural. From before you’ve even arrived, the team will be in contact with you, and you instantly get this sense that every detail has been carefully considered and tailored just for you, yet nothing feels staged or contrived.

Mornings can be spent chasing waves on world-class surf breaks or riding the resort’s rescued Sumbanese horses along the beach. Afternoons might be devoted to the Nihioka Spa, where equine therapy and traditional Sumbanese treatments leave you feeling completely renewed, or to simply relaxing by your private pool, listening to the ocean while the sun drifts across the sky.

Evenings are reserved for extraordinary dining, whether it’s at Ombak Restaurant, a lively buffet at the Sumba Foundation Dinner, indulging in an omakase exploration of Japanese food at Kaboku Restaurant; or a private in-villa feast under the stars. All the while, the resort’s deep connection to the island shines through, with the Sumba Foundation ensuring that your stay contributes to the well-being of the local community.

It’s rare to find a destination that balances such wildly adventurous experiences with moments of deep restoration and reflection. Whether you’re seeking to connect with nature, immerse yourself in local culture, or simply unwind in a setting of exceptional beauty, NIHI Sumba delivers on every level.

Book Your Stay at NIHI Sumba Resort! 

At the moment, we’re offering a special collaboration with NIHI Sumba: The Art of Escape luxury holiday package. Book three nights and pay for just two, providing the perfect opportunity to experience all the resort has to offer without compromise.

Few luxury trips manage to balance world-class comfort with such raw, untamed adventure. Whether you’ve long dreamt of visiting NIHI or are discovering it for the first time, our team at LaTrove Travel can help design your stay to make the most of every wave, every meal, every sunrise and sunset. From organising private experiences and spa treatments to arranging the seamless journey from the airport, we ensure that your time on this extraordinary island is simply one of a kind!

Contact one of our luxury travel agents today.